rule #1 of travel footwear

Never start a land war in Asia.
No wait, that’s not it.

Never talk about fight club.
Wait, wrong movie again.

Never wear brand new shoes on a trip.

And only slightly less well known: make sure your shoes are still in good condition before the trip!

Yesterday I put on my light hiking shoes in the middle of the day, only to rediscover that the heels are broken.
By that I mean that the hard vertical plastic in the heels are broken, with a slight tear in the fabric, resulting in a hard plastic edge digging in to my heels and shredding the skin. Ouch! It was particularly fun going down (narrow) stairs during my hike, where the heal would hit the back of the stop and dig that plastic in even more.
Why didn’t I throw away these shoes already? Or maybe use some pliers to break out the plastic…

Oddly enough, my main pair of casual shoes has a similar problem (though not as pronounced) in the same spot on the left heel.

Seoul: Top10 lists

OK, so these lists don’t actually have 10 items, but you know what I mean…

Based on what I did, with some italicized items that I unfortunately did not see/experience

Top Things To Do:

  • Palaces and Historical Sites
  • Views of the CIty
  • DMZ Tour
  • Silloam Fomentation Sauna and hot tubs
  • Stroll along Cheong-gye-chon (stream)
  • Shopping at Dongdaemun or Namdaemun (night) markets
  • Museums
  • Enjoy Local Food

Top Palaces and Historical Sites:

  • Changdeokgung (palace) and Secret Garden – World Heritage Listed (do the 10:30am English tours of palace and garden, back to back)
  • Gyeongbokgung (palace) and the changing of the guards ceremony at the top of the hour (lasts 15 minutes)
  • Bukchon Hanok Village for traditional house architecture

Top Views of the City:

  • N Seoul Tower on Namsan (mountain) (360° view)
  • 63 City (tower) on south bank of Hangang (river) (view to northeast)
  • Inwangsan (mountain) – short hike close in to town (view to south)
  • Bukaksan (mountain) – longer hike, not quite as close in to town (view to south)

Top Museums:

  • War Memorial Museum
  • Leeum Samsung Museum

 

Seoul: Technology tidbits

Korea, and Seoul in particular, is one of the most wired places on earth. Or should that be most wireless places on earth?

Internet access is very fast (speedtest.net showed 30/10 Mbps down/up at my hostel, about 10 times the speed in North America).

Many cafes, restaurants and bars have free wifi (though Starbucks does not).

There is wi-fi across much of the city, though not free. I didn’t need it enough, but I think it was $2-3/day.

Around town (and especially in metro stations), they have large touch screens with area information, including google satellite map of the area. Very cool.

Surprisingly my GSM phone did roam in Seoul (and Tokyo airport), though I didn’t make calls. (Tip: if you call your phone from Skype in order to check voicemail, turn off your phone first or you may be hit with roaming fees; also, you might need to wait an hour for the phone to be unregistered from the roaming network).

“Seoul Subway” Android app by Sungpil Jang (probably an IPhone version too) – way cool, even offline. Even offline (i.e. no data plan nor wi-fi connection), it will calculate a route between 2 stations including times of the next train(s), and tell you the car and door number for quickest transfer between lines (i.e. where the stairs/hallway to the next metro line is exactly).

Seoul: Metro (subway) notes

The Metro (subway) reminded me of the one in Taipei, i.e. efficient and easy to use:

  • Impressive network of 9 subway lines and 3 commuter rail lines, including one from both airports to downtown Seoul.
  • English language in addition to Hangul everywhere
  • Smart transit stored-value cards called T-Money (non-refundable W2000/$1.75 to purchase the card, then reloadable)
  • Short distance fares (to most tourist places) are the minimum W1000/$0.90 cash or W900/$0.80 with card
  • Card gives you a 10% discount over cash – simply tap the card to the reader on entrance (minimum fare is deducted, and balance shown), and again on exit (if fare is higher, additional amount is deducted; balance is shown again)
  • Station announcements made in Korean, English and Mandarin (sometimes also in Japanese)
  • The turnstile for station entrance/exit is designed for maximum efficiency: there is no blocking gate or physical turnstile, just tap the reader and walk through (I discovered what happens if you don’t pay: as I left for the airport, I pushed my luggage in first before I tapped the reader, and the gate closed and honked at me)
  • There are often monitors showing the time of the next train, sometimes with graphical indicators of where the train physically is, in relation to the previous 2 metro stations on the line.
  • Metro stations also all have numbers identifying them: a 3 digit sequential number within each line, where the first digit is the line number.
  • Some stations have platforms in the middle, some are split; either way, make sure you head to the correct platform by knowing either the end station or at least the next station in the direction you want to go
  • Sometimes the direction sign will list multiple key stations in that direction (not just the next/last station)
  • In the train, there is an indicator of whether the doors will open on the left or right for each station on the line map above the door, in the multi-lingual announcements and on the monitors (for trains that have that).
  • Lines 5678 are newer than 1234 – you see the 5678 “new metro” logo a lot
  • Both in trains and on platforms, a little musical ditty plays before the announcement of an arriving train or station; the music varies by line/direction and is a cute addition to the announcement.
  • Washrooms are clean; sometimes they are inside the station, sometimes they are outside of the paid area.
  • There is at least one cool Android app called “Seoul Subway” by Sungpil Jang (likely for IPhone too) with Seoul metro info that, even offline, will calculate a route between 2 stations including times of the next train(s), and tell you the car and door number for quickest transfer between lines (i.e. where the stairs/hallway to the next metro line is exactly). Wow.
  • There is also a cool online map with station search functionality.
  • Generally the metro is quite crowded; if I’m standing on a platform and there aren’t a lot of people, I probably just missed a train and the platform will get crowded before the next train arrives.
  • There is cell phone coverage and wi-fi in the trains, even underground.
  • I’d say 80% of people under 30 are using their phone (usually playing games or watching TV as they have fast connections) on the train.

Small negatives:

  • The metro doesn’t run very late, though the last train times are posted by the station entrance (in Hangul and English)
  • Transfers between lines can involve a lot of walking, as stations are rarely stacked on top of each other.
  • There are many stairs, not always with escalators (though there is usually an elevator somewhere). At one station I counted 60 stairs to get up to street level, though some are deeper than that.

Tip: Language difficulties pt 2

One thing I like to do is write down key phrases (and numbers) on a piece of paper that I can look at and study quickly without trying to flip through the phrasebook.

I also write down my own pronunciation guide for the word(s), especially here since the pinyin is a little confusing at first (see the related post).

It might go without saying, but if your handwriting looks like chicken scratch the way mine does, you really need to take effort to write cleanly. While I can figure out an English word that I scribbled, the pinyin and/or translation needs to be readable character by character or it’s not really useful anymore.

For example, excuse me is jieguang (with some accents not shown) and my pronunciation tip is jegwung. or is it jegiung? or does that say jegriung? hard to tell (for the record, it’s the first one, where wung rhymes with swung).

Travel technology

This was my first trip with a smart phone (Android). There were 4 (free) apps I used a lot:

  1. Adobe PDF reader for my downloaded Lonely Planet guidebook chapters. They were difficult to read on a small smart phone screen, but handy while out and about to double check something. Although the zoom function was weak – even with my good eyesight, the text wasn’t very big and the light blue markers/text for maps were darn near unreadable.
    Even reading the pdfs on my laptop was less comfortable than a physical book, but it beat carrying around a big guidebook (and if you’ve ever carried, say, the entire India guidebook, you know what I mean).
    Note: pdf reader was free; the Lonely Planet chapters were not.
  2. ASTRO file manager. Nice app for navigating my SD card, e.g. to find the pdfs (and put a shortcut on my home screen).
  3. WorldExplorer map program. In particular, I was able to cache portions of the Taipei map from google maps easily, to varying degrees of zoom, for use while walking around town. With a strong zoom, I could even see the building outlines just like on google maps website.
  4. Taipei Metro map program. Not indispensable, but it was nice to peek at the subway map from my seat, instead of having to get up and look at the map next to the train door. It shows both Chinese and pinyin names for each station.
    Note that the Taipei metro lines and stations do appear on google maps.
    Also note that they were in the process of renaming Danshui to Tamsui (which is notable because it’s the northern end station of the red line) to be a more accurate reflection of the name.

So what about wi-ifi you ask? Taipei is quite wired. Both my hostel’s and one cafe around the corner had wi-fi with 3-6 Mbps down and at least 500 Kbps up. So skype worked well for calls back home.

If you have a local Taiwan mobile phone, you can register to use the free wi-fi around the city (I noticed it in a few metro stations).

If I had been there longer, I probably would have bought a prepaid SIM card for my unlocked quad-band GSM phone. As it was, I didn’t have any real need to call anywhere.

 

Amritsar, and top 5 reasons why the train is better than the bus

Arrived in Amritsar late yesterday afternoon after a 5 hour bus ride from Chandigarh.

The Golden Temple complex is impressive (some liken it to the Taj Mahal in grandeur, but since I didn’t see the latter up close, I can’t comment). The walkway around the sacred pond is all marble with inlaid patterns.
Plus the little touches are nice: no fee to keep shoes (and no tip allowed!), and free simple meals (donation accepted) in the Langar, or community kitchen.

Off to the Pakistan border ceremony now…

Photos: Golden Temple at sunset; what time is it? (clocktower at the Golden Temple complex)

Top 5 reasons why the train is better than the bus:

  • no constant honking
  • no constant acceleration and braking
  • no constant swerving
  • no loud music
  • washrooms on board

It’s hard to believe I’m flying home tomorrow night already! (after my night train to Delhi, and a day, but not night, in Delhi)

Are trains late in India? You bet your @ss!

Sigh. The last three night trains have all been 4-6 hours late, which really cuts into the arrival day!
Tardiness seems to be a bigger problem in North India (at least in my experience).

So be forewarned – don’t count on swooping into a city in the early morning on a night train, then sneaking out again that night on the next one!

Update: my last (6-hour day) train left and arrived on time! (within 3 minutes)

Tip: getting to Indian railway booking site even when blocked

Sometimes Internet cafes will block the http://www.irctc.co.in/ website (presumably to make you book through their related agent!)

You can get around this by typing in the IP address for the web site, i.e. http://203.94.240.82/ which will bring up the same website and you can then use it as normal.
(IP address may change over time; if it’s wrong, type “ping www.irctc.co.in” in a command window to get the right IP address).

Varanasi for a brief day

My (24 hour ride) train arrived at 1:30 (am), over 6 hours late (i.e. 30 hours long). They gave my room away, so I weaseled a cot with fresh sheets in the staff room (they sleep on mats in the lobby) for free (I tipped him this morning), and was able to use the common shower/toilet (for some of the rooms) this morning, since I had been in the same clothes for 48 hours! I got up at 5:30 for boat tour on river, but weather is poor (foggy) so it was a little disappointing. And cold. Well, 19°C with fog/haze and wind and no sun felt mighty cold without a real sweater on! I was told the weather was quite unusual and it had been nice in the morning all week (plus, it didn’t get sunny until mid-afternoon!) I’m leaving Varanasi for Agra in a few hours – a 12 hour night train! Unfortunately this means I will miss the Shiva festival tonight (and tomorrow night), but I didn’t know about that. Tip: don’t schedule just one day in a town if it is important, esp. if you want sunshine for good photos! Too much travel, will cut Jaisalmer out of that itinerary…

Update: I did watch some cremations at Manikarnika Ghat, the main one with continual cremations (24 hours a day, a good dozen at once). More on that when I do the highlights. Inhaling that smoke didn’t help my lungs any (I started coughing again on the long train ride coming here).