Highlights of Varkala

No real sights per se in Varkala, but it was an excellent rejuvenating stop.
The town, which I ignored except for the train station, is a few km from the beach; the Varkala I describe is the tourist ghetto on the cliffs.

Here are some of the things I enjoyed in Varkala:

  • sandy beach
  • refreshing breezes
  • body-surfing in the waves
  • walking along the cliff-top walk, looking at the stores and restos and cafes (all with breezes and a view)
  • Keralan coffee – filtered!
  • fresh seafood nightly (I counted 16 restos that had fresh fish on display for dinner along the 1.2km cliff-top walkway)

    Fresh fish selection for dinner

    note the pieces cut out of the blue marlin

  • meeting other travellers (hi Brennen, Micaela, et al) – this was the first stop since Mamallapuram where there were lots of westerners
  • taking my first yoga class, and meeting a very interesting western “swami” (Jay, though he hates titles – he’s “a spiritual being having a human experience”) on the beach later that day
  • taking a hands-on Kerala cooking class  (see my other post)
  • sunsets (at least the last 2 days when it wasn’t cloudy); see a sunset wave video at http://jantrabandt.blip.tv/

    Sunset on the beach
    Tibetan shopkeeper
  • Tibetan singing bowls (there are a number of Tibetans here, with their shops and restaurants; in fact 2 of my best meals here were at 2 Tibetan restos – one fresh kingfish/dolphin-fish/mahi-mahi, and one veg sizzler).  (sorry, no Tibetan singing bowls in that picture – different shop!)
  • tourist wedding on the beach: bride and groom arrive on separate elephants, led by a little band (drums and cymbals); after a brief ceremony in a decorated bamboo hut built on the beach for the occasion, they depart together on one elephant. Lots of tourists on the beach watch! (see the photo in another post, and the video now at http://jantrabandt.blip.tv/)
  • natural spring water coming out pipes at the bottom of the cliff (refill your water bottle! I UV-sterilized it to be extra safe (because I had the technology :-), but lots of tourists were drinking it)

Misc photos: North beach viewed from a breezy 2nd floor resto, fishermen at dusk:

North beach
Fishermen at dusk

Be forewarned: every meal takes at least 1 hour!

Tips: reducing plastic waste

In Fort Cochin, a part of Kochi (formerly Cochin), I saw one Internet cafe, as well as one restaurant, that didn’t sell water in plastic bottles. Instead, they hae big 5 gallon re-usable water bottles (similar to the big water coolers we see in offices back home, or in homes and offices in Arizona and Nevada), from which you can refill your own little water bottle for Rs5/$0.13 per Litre.

A damn fine idea – why didn’t I think of that? We need to suggest that concept in more places around India and around the world!

I do remember a little condo/hotel in Isla Mujeres, Mexico (near Cancun), that put 5 gallon water tank (no dispenser though) in the room.

On an unrelated note, here is a sunset photo in Fort Cochin, with a Chinese cantilevered spider-like fishing net (the unofficial emblem of Kerala) in the foreground:

Chinese cantilevered fishing net

Arrived in Fort Kochi (Fort Cochin) today after my backwater village homestay

I spent 2 great days in a backwater village homestay in Chennamkary (island) near Alleppey. Wow. Way cool.

Today I arrived in Fort Cochin which is a more relaxing (tourist ghetto) part of Kochi (Cochin), on a peninsula by the open ocean. There are cool Chinese-style fishing nets on large cantilevered poles here (the unofficial emblem of Kerala, apparently).

All 3 of my 2GB memory cards are filled up (granted, I’ve been taking pictures at maximum 7 mega pixel resolution) despite trimmint the size on photos on my current card-in-camera 3 times in the last 3 days to make more room (since if I’m not going to print a photo, it doesn’t really need to be that high res).

Tonight I had dinner with the three fun ex-pats (Gallant, Jing and Leslie) from Hong Kong whom I met in the homestay (and I bumped into Anne from the Alleppey canoe ride here as well).

Gallant, Jing and Leslie

Arrived in Alleppey today after extending Varkala to 6 nights

Actually it is now officially called Alappuzha, but Alleppey seems more common (even in the train schedules!).
2 hours by train (Rs70/$1.75 for “sleeper” class). I almost missed getting on the train!

This is the gateway town to the backwaters of Kerala – canals and villages accessible only by boat (over a huge area).

I already did a 3-hour canoe ride (2 paddler guides) shared with Anne, a nice German almost-a-doctor I met on the train (who is travelling after studying at a hospital in Tamil Nadu for a few months). The first part was a little disappointing, and it really wasn’t until the 3rd hour (which we negotiated at the point they wanted to turn around and return by exactly the same route) that it became more relaxing and interesting – that 3rd hour definitely made it worthwhile! Anne had negotiated Rs250/$6.25 for 2 hours, which became Rs350/$8.75 for 3 hours (total, not per person).
We saw this woman and grandchild at a canoe stop for coconut water (Annerose gave some white balloons to the kids):

ld woman and grandchild

Tomorrow I go to my backwater village homestay in my “ridiculously picturesque backwater village” for 1 (or maybe 2) nights. Should be fun, and there better not be internet access! 😉

Update: I forgot to mention that on the train was also a 22 year old Finnish girl who had just married a local Indian boy in Varkala!

Still in Varkala

It’s so relaxing, I’m spending 2 extra nights here in my semi-luxurious hotel room (Rs800/$20 per night) – sheets without stains or holes! top sheet! real towels!

Yesterday I took a hands-on cooking class (Rs500/$12.50 for 1-2 people) with my new Scottish bud Brennen

Brennen and Jan at cooking class

(the pic shows 4 of the 5 dishes we prepared and then ate; the chicken kurma was particularly good!).

Tomorrow morning I will take my first yoga class ever.

I’ve also been doing a lot of body surfing these past few days… though yesterday it felt like I had bruised a rib (on my right side) from 2 poundings the waves gave me the day before that… though I am a little sunburnt after today.
And eating fresh seafood every night – I counted 16 restos that had fresh fish on display for dinner along the 1.2km cliff-top walkway (there are in fact more restos than that).

Oh, and today a British couple got married on the beach, arriving on separate elephants, led by a small band (and leaving together on one elephant after the brief ceremony)

Beach wedding with elephants

Yesterday was cloudy all day; today was sunny, though it rained in the evening (and feels even more humid!).

On Sunday I will move on to Alleppey, a town that is the gateway to the Keralan backwaters (hundreds of kilometers of canals connecting little villages).

Highlights of Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin)

Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin), also known as Cap Com, is at the very southern tip of mainland India, where the Gulf of Bengal, Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea all come together (the southernmost of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands are slightly further south, latitude-wise).
There are 4 main sights to see (not counting sunrise and sunset, which unfortunately were unspectacular due to clouds in the way):

The Vivekananda Memorial (Rs10/$0.25) and Thiruvalluvar Statue (free), reached by a small passenger ferry (Rs20/$0.50) that does a circular route to these 2 small rocky islands a few hundred metres off-shore. The memorial was built in 1970 for in memory of a swami who meditated here in 1892. Visiting this memorial had a Disneyland-ride feel to it (follow the arrows and lines around the island). Update: I forgot to mention that at the memorial there is a darkened meditation room with a glowing Om symbol and a recorded Om sound that plays every 30 seconds or soo. Very relaxing.
The statue, also referred to as the “Statue of Liberty” of India, is of the Tamil namesake poet and stands 133 feet tall (inc. the base) due to his master 133 chapter work Thirukural.

Kumari Amman Temple and Vivekananda Memorial

The Kumari Amman Temple (free) which I didn’t find that interesting, though it has the unusual feature of requiring all men to take off their shirts when entering the temple. It has a stunning location near the tip, but you can’t see the shore or oceans from within the temple’s high outer walls.

The Gandhi Memorial (free) – yes, another one! he’s very popular, you see – which is a multi-architectural-style building near the shore, with a good 360° view from the little tower.

The bathing ghats just south of the temple. There’s a little sandy beach too, but beware – the water is full of rocks and shallower than one would expect (I scraped my ankle). Always an interesting slice of Indian life at a ghat or beach.
Here is an emaciated old man meditating near the ghats:

Old emaciated man meditating

Also, there is an interesting looking tsunami memorial to the lives lost in the tsunami of Xmas 2004 near the ghats.

Tsunami memorial

There were far more Indian tourists/pilgrims here than foreigners, not to mention school groups…

Overall it’s a relaxing little town on a stunning location, definitely worth a visit!

My hotel was right next to the temple entrance, and I had a view of the water and rocky islands (the memorial and statue).

Highlights of Madurai

Madurai, about 3 hours by train south of Trichy, has 2 main sights: the big Sri Meenakshi Temple, and the Gandhi Memorial Museum. And lots of tailor shops.

The Sri Meenakshi Temple (Rs50/$1.25, + Rs50/$1.25 for camera) was built in 1506 in Dravidian architecture. The outer wall surrounds a 6ha/15acre compound. There are 12 gopurams ranging in height from 45-50m. The large pillared temple contains many gold-topped sanctums (off-limits to non-Hindus). There is also an art museum in the 1000 Pillared Hall (which probably really does have a thousand pillars!) which I rushed through.
I was getting a little templed out so overall I wasn’t wowed by this one, despite the rave reviews in my guidebook.

the closeup isn’t from the same gopuram pictured on the left…

The Gandhi Memorial Museum (free, + Rs50/$1.25 for camera) had 2 distinct sections: the first one describes the 2-century fight for independence against the British, which I had just read in my guidebook the day before, so it was a little repetitive (albeit with photos and maps) but still interesting. The second one describes the life of Gandhi, in way too much detail (well, too much detail for me). The exhibit includes the blood-stained loincloth that Gandhi wore when he was assassinated by a Hindu zealot on 1948/01/30 (I recall they had a remembrance on that anniversary when I was in Pondy, which has a huge Gandhi statue by the shore). Anyways, the reason the loincloth is in Madurai is that Gandhi had decided in Madurai years earlier to only wear a loincloth (of the style common in Madurai).

Another noteworthy item is the large number of tailor shops in Madurai. I had 2 cotton short-sleeved shirts made for me (one orange, one blue) for Rs600/$15 for the pair of them (probably “overpaid” but they work, though they won’t last forever :-)

Arrived in Varkala last night (cliff-top beach town)

Internet is very slow here, but will try to post some updates over the next 2 days as I chill here for 3 nights.
I’m now in the state of Kerala, in the southwest corner o India.
It’s a beautiful setting, albeit very touristy (though apparently not as commercial as beaches in Goa).
Fresh fish is on display in the many restaurants every night.

There is a cliff-top walkway with no buildings on the ocean side (no railings either, for the most part!) and a long row of restaurants, shops and hotels on the inland side. My hotel is further back (a 2 min walk from the “action”). There is a nice breeze from the ocean, and I’ve gotten some nice body surfing rides down at the wide beach, which you reach via steps on the cliff. There are even lifeguards on the beach (the rips are strong).

Beach and cliff

The main stairs down to the beach from the cliff top are visible on the right

Leaving Madurai late tonight for Kanyakumari

At 2:10 in the morning, that is, on a night train that puts me in at 6:30 in the morning. I have a sleeper berth in AC3 class – that’s open compartments of 6 berths (3 per side) with A/C. Since I have a cheap hotel room (Rs160/$4 per 24 hours, I took it an extra “night” and so I can snooze tonight before going to the train station.
I did notice on my previous train, also in AC3 class, that there is no extra luggage room for my backpack – it will have to go on the berth with me!
Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin), informally known as Cap Com, is at the southern tip of India, where the Gulf of Bengal, Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea all come together.
After one day and night there I start heading up the west coast to the state of Kerala; first stop will be Varkala, a cliff-top beach town (there is a beach below).

Today I tried to go to a bank to change a large bill (Rs1000/$25 is extremely hard to use, but that’s what the ATM mainly spits out), only to discover that it was in fact Sunday and the bank wasn’t open. Oops!

Did I mention I’m very much looking forward to seeing the ocean again after 5 landlocked days? Getting tired of temples and cities…

Here is a photo from the vegetable market in Madurai:

Vegetable market