Tikehau lagoon excursion: all-day boat trip

From 9:00 to ~16:30, 4 couples and 2 friendly crew on a fast boat with a bimini for shade.

Stops were:
– La Ferme aux Mantas, a manta ray cleaning station by a former pearl farm on a little island in the lagoon; we saw one (none in recent days, so we were lucky); had to swim hard to follow him to get a close up look
– a deep water snorkel spot where crew spearfished fish for lunch
– Motu Puarua (bird island), where 4 species of birds, inc red footed boobies, nest on land
– delicious lunch on a private motu, inc Tahitian raw fish, coconut milk rice (best rice ever!), bbq’d fresh fish, beer and water; plenty of time to soak in the shallow water (like a natural swimming pool) before and after eating, and feeding the fish carcasses to the many sharks in the hot tub warm shallow water of the channel where the boat was parked
– Eden Island, a bizarre hippy-ish organic island paradise founded by some Taiwanese Christians who followed some prophet here
– another check for manta rays (none) so we snorkeled at the other end of that island

The lagoon is roughly a 25km diameter circle (slightly oval, really), and the trip takes you from one end almost to the other.

Tips:
– take water, hat, sunscreen, chapstick with spf
– wear a rash guard or T-shirt for sun protection
– apply sunscreen often, esp on face after each bout of snorkeling
– did I mention sunscreen?

… Or your face will look like this (see my cheeks below the eyes. ouch):

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Cost: ~$105 pp
Definitely worth it.

Will upload photos after the trip, as I didn’t take my phone on the boat.

Tikehau: Tuherehera village

Our resort on a private motu runs a free shuttle boat to the village (same motu as the airport) of Tuherahera, pop. 500, four times a day.

Tips:
– you can ask for a free bicycle rental at reception, and they’ll load it onto the shuttle boat for you
– ask reception for a village map (not critical, as it is small)
– hit the store before returning, not on arrival
– bottled water is 1/6th the price compared to the hotel
– there is a bakery near the boat dock

We missed the bicycle opportunity (we had read that pensions in the village provide them, but it hadn’t occurred to us that an island resort would have them). Apparently there is a nice sandy beach on the ocean side of the motu, and a dirt road to cycle on…

So we walked around in the heat, taking one of two parallel roads to the west end of the motu where there was a nice soft coral beach and we met that fisherman with the dogs and circling sharks.

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We passed an elementary school, several churches, two snack bars, and friendly locals who waved or said ia ora na (hello; sounds like yora-na)

On the way back, we stopped at the little grocery store which had more mosquitoes than produce :-)
We picked up cold drinks, and a few larger water bottles to take back to the hotel.

Funny story: we were at reception (next to the boat dock) booking our lagoon excursion and fancy massage) when I look around to check the time and notice the boat has already left (early). Not sure how we missed the commotion, oops. The receptionist tried to radio the captain unsuccessfully, however she did arrange for the captain to ferry us over as soon as he returned (it’s only a 7 minute ride each way).

The massage ended up being outside on a massage bed standing in the water near shore, which felt nice with the sound of the ocean, refreshing breeze, a brief rain shower, then late afternoon sun.

View over PPT airport, with Mo’orea in the background

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The Air France flight was cramped (every seat taken – was hoping to have an empty seat between us) with a sad breakfast and terrible coffee (no cream or milk! Just powdered creamer. This is not the French way!

Immigration line was very slow, unless you have a European passport.

Pulled cash from the ATM (some bills have turtles on them!), had a coffee/juice, went for a little walk around the nearby area, bought some snacks at the grocery store practically  next door to the airport.

In Korean lounge at LAX

Waiting for our 0:55 red-eye to PPT (Papeete, Tahiti) after relaxing in a day room at a nearby hotel and meeting Susan’s friend for lunch in Santa Monica.

The KL lounge is large and mostly updated, with a small food selection (at least at this hour) and an open bar. It looks out (Inc a balcony) over the concourse.

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The last 2 photos are an ever-changing 3D-ish video wall in the into terminal (TBIT) .